Resonator Pad Sizing Chart

Here's a sizing chart from which you can make a determination as to how you want to 'size fit' your resonators per pad.->New "Series III", down below.<-

{NOTE: For Pro or Rock & Roll, a'la "Jr." Walker, try this: Index the pad in the cup by putting a small mark on the edge of the pad with a pen, in line the with the cup arm. Then, test fit the pad (no glue, just a press fit) in the cup and mount the key or keys on the body, "kiss" the tone hole(s) lightly; just enough so you can 'see' where the tone hole will hit the pad when you are finished. Remove the key or keys from the body.

Now, remove the pad from the cup and install the largest resonator you can put in the pad without hitting the 'kiss indent ring' left by the tone hole; leave between 1/32"(.8mm) to 1/16"(1.6mm) clearance for best results. If the player uses a lot of finger pressure you may want to go more toward the 1/16" reveal.

You will notice that most of the time the tone hole will NOT be centered on the pad, you can 'adjust' (read BEND) this side to side (what we call North to South) a little bit but, not front to rear (what we call East to West), unless you want to elongate the hole in the pad. But, after much testing, I did NOT find this East to West 'centering' to be worth the effort. So, 'Center' the relationship as best you can before determining the final resonator size, keeping the necessary clearance and/or reveal.

Permanently fasten the resonator in the pad with the staking tool as usual and then, using the indexing, install the pads in the cups as usual. (Read the "Sax Pads" section.)

When assembled and the instrument is played; there will be less soft surface (leather) exposed to the sound wave and the air column and the sound projection should be enhanced some (I will leave this to experts). There also may be an increase in longevity of the pads because less leather is exposed to the elements. I made the resonators barely fit into the toneholes one time, even going to the time consuming "centering" of the resonator in the tone hole (most are NOT) this made NO difference.

In 2005, I was told by a retired Selmer engineer, that, "You need only cover slightly over 80% of the exposed pad surface in the hole and you have done all you can do." That would have saved me about 2 hours.

The "Common Use" chart :

This is HOW WE MADE ALL of OUR and Selmer's PADS. Special Bundy's used #1 all the way up to 23.5 mm,

Note: and the #3 all the way thru to the 32mm.

The number 4 up to the 37mm and the #5 on the 41.5mm.

The #7 up to 45.5mm and the #8 up to 49.7mm.

The sizes in the chart above are what some consider the largest to be used and as amended by the notes regarding Bundy/Signet units. In our catalog you will notice that we recommended slightly smaller sizes than those listed above. This was to take into consideration odd sizing tone holes for a more generic or universal fit. Always check sizing, due to different construction ideas and design differences from one particular manufacturer to another.

Custom sizing as described above is time consuming and should be charged for, at least another hour; on top of the job price. Resonators other than the standard B53R's will take about another hour to install, due to the extra time maneuvering your leveling tools around them to prevent marring the surfaces et cetera and should be charged for also. That's 2 extra hours. Don't forget to include this extra time in your estimate! Extra work for extra service should be charged for because, you could be doing something else and getting paid for doing that and making someone else happy; who is glad to pay your for your work.

The New Selmer 'Series III' Sizes are listed below.

"Series III" - Resonator to Pad sizing

Notice that the sizes are quite different from the Pre-'Series III' sizing.

Read carefully: Some same size pads have different sized resonators or rivets, depending on which saxophone pad set they are used in, due to tone hole/pad cup sizes.