This is actually about Cutters!Using your pivot screw reamers; pivot screw countersinks, hollow hinge tube shorteners and solid hinge tube shorteners for starters. (Not to mention drills, taps, rods being threaded, etc.
I was asked the other day why we put wooden handles on some of our cutters, and why we also sell them with NO Handles at all. There are two schools of thought.
The answer to the first question is, because that's how we learned to use them so long ago, and we didn't see any reason to change. After all, the handle is light, and using them by hand you seemed to have 100% control, controlling the speed, pressure and depth. Just a little off here, just a smidge more. 100% control. And, a handcraft tradition is maintained.
The second answer is that my dad likes things done quickly and accurately. He likes to put the shaft of the cutter into the bench motor; and cut, using only the hand brake as the input for the power. Once again, 100% control. More accurately too, the shaft is spun on an axis that doesn't change. Hence, we've sold them that way since 1955.
Even using a heavy mechanical holder won't help and can, in fact, make it worse. (ex.) Follow the action of your arm and wrist as you use a screwdriver or a cutter, it's up and down and swinging an arc in three dimension. By hand, you are actually sculpting the post or the end of the hinge tube. It may fit, but you don't have a total fit. Using your bench motor, without power, everything is kept squarer and your job is basically better.
Additionally, you can use your bench motor with power for: drilling, grinding, polishing mouthpieces or straightening bent rods. Heck, I've even been known to sand a clarinet mouthpiece cork or two.