Part of the Woodwind Family

The answer is simple: getting the pads installed correctly, level and properly sealed.

Whenever possible, select a pad thickness that does not require a large amount of adhesive behind it. Too much adhesive forces you to depend on the glue for adjustment, leveling and sealing. A properly sized pad with a controlled amount of adhesive provides a more stable and predictable installation.

Choosing Piccolo Pads

Many piccolos require B21 clarinet pads to function correctly and provide a trouble-free repair. In the old days, we called the installation process “floating” because the pad was literally floated on a thick puddle of white French cement. Today, the term is still used, although the process is not quite the same.

I successfully used B20 pads in piccolos for many years. However, the double-skin construction of the B21 makes it more durable and quieter. Its thicker cardboard backing also helps keep the pad flat, which makes installation and leveling easier.

Using the B21 also reduces the possibility of French cement boiling over, bubbling or even exploding from behind the pad and burning you. Don’t ask me how I know. I must have heard or read about it somewhere.

Determining the Correct Pad and Adhesive Height

The proper combined height of the pad and adhesive depends on two main factors:

• The depth of the pad cup
• The attack angle of the pad cup in relation to the tone hole

Plastic-bodied and wood-bodied instruments often require less total thickness. Many metal-bodied piccolos require more. However, there are plenty of exceptions.

You may even need two different pad thicknesses on the same piccolo, particularly on tapered-body instruments. Ideally, all the pads should have approximately the same amount showing beyond the cups. This exposed portion is called the pad “reveal.” A consistent reveal creates a cleaner, more professional appearance.

You may need to adjust the pad cup angle to obtain the correct relationship between the pad and tone hole.

Precision Matters

Do not expect the pads to forgive inaccurate work, and do not use “elephant fingers.” Clarinet, flute, piccolo and oboe pads require a light touch and a high degree of precision.

These instruments must be almost perfect to respond and play well. There is very little room for error. If the pads are not properly installed, leveled and sealed, the instrument may respond poorly and become difficult to play.

Use light finger pressure when checking the pads. Before bending or adjusting anything, stop and think about what the adjustment will do.

A safe rule is to inspect the entire instrument before beginning the repair. Make all obvious mechanical corrections before changing any pads.

Duplicate a Working Installation

Before installing a new pad, examine what is currently in the cup.

If the existing pad is worn but the instrument otherwise works correctly, duplicate the original overall thickness, pad position and setup. This allows you to replace the pad without unnecessarily changing the instrument’s existing geometry.

If there is a large amount of adhesive inside the cup, remove it. Replace the old installation with a correctly sized pad and a smaller, dependable amount of adhesive.

The goal is to make the necessary repair without introducing new problems.

Using G67 Amber Shellac

I use G67 amber shellac for several reasons. When heated properly, it adheres securely, does not wear out and provides a good amount of liquid working time for positioning and leveling the pad.

When the repair is complete, the instrument should look as though you were never there. The exception, of course, is an instrument that was already badly damaged or improperly repaired when it arrived.

Basic Pad-Installation Tools

If you are only changing pads on these four instruments, the required tools are fairly simple:

• D35 Feeler Gauge
• E33 Pad Slick
• D44 Pin Prick
• A controlled heat source

For heat, I prefer the L62 Butane Bunsen. It produces a flame similar to the natural-gas flame I have used for more than 50 years. The flame has a rounded blue cone, is predictable and is not excessively hot.

You do not need to burn or scorch the shellac. You only need to melt it.

Overheating or scorching the shellac can damage its holding qualities. If it is mistreated, the pad may fall out approximately nine months later.

Final Reminder

The process is pretty basic, but precision and patience are essential.

Do not hurry. Use a light touch, think before making adjustments and allow the instrument to come to you.

Ferree’s Tools: “Because They Work!”